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Reflections by: Dillon Lim, Gzenn Low, Jonah Kwek

Basilica of St. Domenico

Basilica of St Domenico

After a delicious breakfast buffet from the hotel, we stepped out into the rainy streets of Siena. Our first stop of the day was the Basilica of St. Domenico. Although the church is dedicated to St. Dominic, the highlight of this church is the relics of St. Catherine of Siena that it houses. Our local guide cheekily added that most locals refer to this church as St. Catherine’s Church instead of St. Dominic’s Church. Stepping into its large empty hall, we found that the church was not filled with pews, unlike many other churches that we have visited, as it was used to house pilgrims and homeless people. Through our guide we learnt about St. Catherine and her most significant work; when she was inspired by the Holy Spirit to bring the Pope back to Rome from Avignon. This journey took 2 years of her life. When the Pope initially refused, St. Catherine slept outside the door daily of the Pope until he relented. This demonstrated very strongly her commitment to the goodness and truth of the Lord, and inspired me to strive to have the same commitment as she did. Having played such a significant role in the formation of the Church, she is greatly admired in Siena, and the whole of Italy, being the patroness of the country. Our guide Nicoletta animatedly joked that people often say they come to the church to “have a chat with Catherine”, as most regard her as their close friend. Although I didn’t have a particular connection with St. Catherine, God spoke to me through Nicoletta with her passion and pride for St Catherine and Siena. In light of knowing oneself, it’s refreshing to see someone living out their true vocation with such passion and vigour. The story of St. Catherine only lives on because of people like her. Grazie mille, Nicoletta! 

Inside the Basilica of St Domenico

St Catherine’s Birthplace 

We then took a short walk down to the birthplace of St. Catherine. Born in 1347, St Catherine had 23 other siblings. Her mother was 40 when she was born, and her father was a cloth dyer. Today, a sanctuary with a small church exists on her birthplace. However, when St. Catherine lived here, it was as a residential compound where many families lived. St Catherine and her family lived in a 2-room flat. As 2 rooms were definitely not enough space for her family of 26, it is said that most of them slept outside of the house in the common areas. As Catherine was the youngest of her siblings, she probably did most of her sleeping outside as well. Imagining the hardship she must have lived through, especially being born into the pandemic of the Black Death, made me more thankful of my current circumstances. It taught me to not take my comfort for granted, and taught me humility, to learn to let go of expectations I may have for myself and my life, and to claim joy each and every day.

Duomo di Siena

After our visit to St. Catherine’s birthplace, we were given free time to explore the city and have lunch. After lunch at a local cafe, we found ourselves at the Duomo di Siena, or the Cathedral of Siena. Marked head to toe, inside and outside, with its iconic black-and-white horizontal stripes, the cathedral is unquestionably one of Italy’s finest gothic churches. It is also filled with the works of Italy’s greatest artists of the day: Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Donatello, Pinturicchio, Lorenzo Ghiberti, and Bernini.

Statues and paintings aside, the room that was most special to me was the Piccolomini Library. The Library houses precious illuminated choir books and frescoes painted by the Umbrian Pinturicchio, probably based on designs by Raphael. These huge majestic choir books were used in a time before PowerPoint slides and projectors. They would be shared by an entire choir or group of monks who were performing the chants. Fra. Derrick took a small group of us around the chapel and explained to us the various scenes depicted by each book. He also explained to us that these books are very valuable due to their sheer size and use of rare colours of gold and blue. In contrast, humbler Franciscan choir books are much smaller and only have red and black ink. 

Seeing these colossal books laid out in front of me felt like I was transported into the past. We take our printed material for granted these days, but 500 years ago it was not easy to obtain a piece of print like that. Paper like we know it did not exist then, and these documents were prepared on parchments made from animal skin. Thus, it was hard to come by, and would have cost a lot to print such massive choir books. 

Piazza Del Campo

Another notable space in the city of Siena is the main public square known as the Piazza Del Campo. Standing in the strange, almost trapezoidal square, our guide Fulvio showed us a video of a crazy horse race watched on by throngs of locals. To our surprise, we were standing in the very grounds of that same horse race! Twice a year, the 17 contrade (districts) of Siena each send a representative to compete in the horse race known as the Palio di Siena. It is also in this square where St. Bernadino gave his famous sermon in 1444. It is said that the square can fit close to 4500 people. Being in the centre of such a significant square was really surreal! 

Basilica of St Francis in Siena

The last place of visit was the Basilica of St. Francis in Siena. Built in the 13th century in the Romanesque style, it was enlarged in the following two centuries into the current impressive gothic structure. It has an exterior made of brick and has a rather sober style. The rose window is the only ancient element, acquired from the 15th century façade by Francesco di Giorgio Martini.

This church is known for a Eucharistic Miracle that took place within its walls. On the 14th of August 1730, a ciborium containing 223 pieces of consecrated hosts were stolen by thieves. The thieves then dumped these hosts into the offertory box. They were found 3 days later in the nearby church of Santa Maria in Provenzano, when they opened it to collect the offerings. The Hosts were then piously cleaned, examined and duly identified. The Hosts were not consumed due to hygiene reasons, and more importantly as they were consecrated Hosts. Surprisingly, these Hosts remained unchanged, maintaining their form, structure and freshness, even till today, whereas regular bread would have turned mouldy and stale in a matter of weeks. Evidently, Divine Providence transformed the object of the sacrilegious act into a wonderful testimony of the true presence of Christ in the Eucharist. On several occasions, experts have examined the sacred Hosts scientifically. Yet, the Hosts have been constantly concluded by science that they are still intact and physically incorrupt.

We had Mass in the chapel where the miraculous Hosts are contained. At the end of Mass, the window that covered the Hosts opened and revealed the Chalice containing the miraculous Hosts. In awe, we immediately knelt down and sang in adoration of our Lord, truly present (Body, Blood, Soul, Divinity) in the Eucharist. Peace, tranquility and the Holy Spirit filled the chapel. We were fortunate enough to view the Hosts close-up and indeed, they still looked fresh! In knowing these Eucharistic miracles, my love for the Eucharist continues to grow.

This day was a particularly tiring one with all our travelling, but it was worth it, and my highlight was witnessing the Eucharistic Miracle of 1730 up close with my very own eyes. This personal encounter was deeply moving and touching, and I hope to carry this same adoration and reverence of the Lord in every Mass and every step of my way as I go back to Singapore. Tomorrow, it is an early departure to the Sanctuary of La Verna, the summit of our pilgrimage and for Franciscans, and where we will spend time away from the world in silent retreat.

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