Reflections by: Dillon Lim, Gzenn Low, Han Joseph Kuah, Lynette Koh
After a hearty buffet breakfast at our hotel, we hopped on our bus and headed for the Roman neighbourhood of Trastevere. Trastevere comes from the Latin “Trans Tiberim” which means “beyond the Tiber”, as the neighbourhood lies across the Tiber River from the historic centre of Rome. Trastevere is one of the more characteristic neighbourhoods in Rome, and we found ourselves mesmerised by its narrow and colourful streets. Apart from artisan shops and gelaterias, Trastevere is also home to a number of unique churches that St Francis crossed paths with.
Church of San Francesco a Ripa
When St Francis visited Rome in 1219, he stayed in a convent attached to a little orange church in Trastevere. That church now bears his name: San Francesco a Ripa, which translates to “St Francis by the river”, since the church is adjacent to the river Tiber. Walking around the church, the first thing that caught my eye was the shrine of the blessed Ludovica Albertina. In the shrine, Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s sculpture titled “Beata Ludovica in Ecstasy” resides above the blessed Ludovica’s tomb. Ludovica Albertoni lived in Trastevere and joined the Franciscan order, so the church is a fitting location for this tribute. The Roman noblewoman was beatified (the step before sainthood) after dedicating her life to the service of the poor. She gave herself over to charity after her husband died, and had a reputation as a miracle worker. Bernini’s sculpture depicts her in a moment of religious ecstasy after an encounter with our Lord Jesus Christ. The sculpture deeply spoke to me as it reminded me of the pure, intense joy I too felt during my personal encounters with Jesus.
We then took a narrow flight of stone steps to a small chapel where Pope John Paul II prayed during a visit in 1991. It is also said that St Francis spent time in prayer in the same chapel during his visit in 1219. The chapel was home to numerous relics, the most memorable of them being a strand of rope belonging to St Francis’ habit, the very stone pillow St Francis rested his head on, and a piece of skin that came from St Francis’ hands when he experienced the stigmata. Being in the presence of these relics, things that St Francis physically interacted with, was extremely surreal. If Francis went on to do such great things after leaving that same chapel I sat in, I too wondered what could become of my life if I devoted it to God, like Francis did.
Santi Quaranta Martiri e San Pasquale Baylon
After visiting the Church of San Francesco a Ripa, we took a short stroll before we were met with a yellow-peach exterior and detailed white architecture. This small, simple parish church is Santi Quaranta Martiri e San Pasquale Baylon, which translates to Holy Forty and St Paschal Baylon. Its exact founding year is unknown, but what’s known is that it was restored by Pope Callixtus II in 1123, when it was dedicated to the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste. It was then restored again in 1608 before the Alcantraines, under the patronage of the King of Spain, took over the church in 1738. Thereafter, it was rebuilt by the Alcantarines in 1747 to a design by Giuseppe Sardi. The church was then re-dedicated to Saint Paschal Baylon. Entering the church, we were greeted with a dimly lit interior where the only source of light stroked through the tiny windows in the centre of the church. We took our seats as we listened to our guide explain the different parts of the church and unravelled the meaning behind each painting. As the church was dedicated to the Spanish Franciscans, Franciscans were trained in these grounds before being missioned to the far east – Philippines. I contemplated on the importance of missions and the bravery these Franciscans couraged as they embarked on the journey the Lord had called them to. As an individual compelled to mission work, I admired these Friars that had dedicated their lives to travelling the ends of the world to spread the word of the Lord. How can I walk in the footsteps of these Friars with confidence in the Lord?
P.S: Saint Paschal Baylon created the well known Italian dessert, Zabaione. (which Ashwin loves, but we don’t).
Santa Maria in Trastevere
The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere (Our Lady in Trastevere) is a titular minor basilica in the Trastevere district of Rome, and one of the oldest churches of Rome where Mass was celebrated openly. The first sanctuary was built in 221 and 227 by Pope Callixtus I and later completed by Pope Julius I. The church has large areas of important mosaics from the late 13th century by Pietro Cavallini.
The inscription on the episcopal throne states that this is the first church in Rome dedicated to Mary, mother of Jesus, although some claim that privilege belongs to the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore.
The church has always been the focus of local religious and civic life and, as has been famously remarked, if Trastevere were a small city on a dusty hilltop in southern Italy, instead of being a district on the ‘wrong’ side of the river in the heart of Rome, Santa Maria in Trastevere would be its cathedral.
The history of the church as a title for cardinal priests goes back to the earliest cardinals. The title here was, by tradition, given to St Calepodius when he was created cardinal in the early 3rd century (or, at least, given rank equivalent to that of cardinal; he would have been the priest of the church with functions similar to that of later cardinals).
What I found interesting though, was the narthex. There is a large collection of pagan and early Christian inscriptions (3rd century), and some fragments of 9th century sculpture as well as medieval frescoes. There are also bits of sarcophagi, and worn-out Renaissance memorial floor-slabs. Many of the pagan ones were collected from the tombs on the Appian Way in the 18th and early 19th centuries. It looked like pages of an ancient or historical book, revealing stories about the past.
For lunch, the majority of us went to Tonnarello, a popular restaurant recommended by Fr. Derrick, (and google reviews of course *cough 30k reviews that vouch for 4.7 stars!) and the food was no doubt really good! Some recommendations would be the Lasagne, Fried rice balls and the Eggplant Pasta, Or Carbonara! But their portions are rather large, if you aren’t a heavy eater, you might want to share your pasta with a friend!
After lunch, we had some time to roam about and we spent the time eating gelato, taking pictures with amazing (fall-like) scenery, and visiting souvenir shops!
Basilica of St Paul’s Outside the Wall
After filling our stomachs with yummy pasta and exploring the Trastevere, we headed to The Basilica of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, which is one of the four major basilicas of Rome, and is the second largest after St. Peter’s Basilica. It was founded on the burial ground of St. Paul. In 1823, a workman repairing part of the Basilica’s roof started a fire that led to the near total destruction of the Basilica, and the Basilica’s Cloister was one of the few parts which survived the fire. After the fire, many countries made donations for the restoration of the church, which was reopened in 1840. In its interior, we saw mosaics from the thirteenth century, a large twelfth-century chandelier, and the marble tombstone under which the remains of St. Paul lie. On the Basilica’s walls, we also observed the portraits of each of the popes, all the way from Peter to our current pope Francis.
Walking into the Basilica, the enormous pillars are the first things that stand out to me. I was instantly reminded that we, the people, are the pillars of the church just as St Peter and Paul were. A statue of St Paul sits in the centre of the pillars. As this is also the site of St Paul’s death, the pillars surrounding the statue of St Paul mimics his prison. Yet this “prison” doesn’t remind me of the tragedy of his execution but rather how the pillars represent the steadfastness of St Paul’s faith, to be the prisoner of the Lord.
