Reflection by: Marcus Liow
Chronicles of a pilgrim – Day 5 – Magdala, Bethsaida, Safed, Domus Galilaeae Monastery
#sequelachristi2022
The day started with a morning jog from our hotel up to Mount Berenice to catch the Sunrise as well as to take a look at the 2,000-year-old pool and the remains of a 6th-century church that was used by Herod Antipas.
Cutting through a neighborhood on the way there, I could understand why our guide said that Israel is far from beautiful, yet beautiful from afar. The route was littered with trash along the way and even at the archaeological site on Mount Berenice where little to no care had been put in to preserve the area.
Magdala
After breakfast, we celebrated mass at the Boat Chapel in Magdala which had a picturesque background as it was located just by the Sea of Galilee. The ancient city of Magdala was unearthed in 1971 during the Franciscan excavations. The Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land has owned one part of the Magdala ancient town since 1912. Between 1971 and 1977 archaeological excavations began, conducted by Father Stephano Loffreda and Father Virgilio Canio Corbo, when structures, streets, and artifacts (1st BCE – 4th CE) were brought to the light.
In 2009, construction had begun to build a 300-person spirituality retreat center, led by Rev. Juan M. Solana who was the director of the Pontifical Institute Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center at that time. During a routine dig of the site, the diggers hit a hard stone bench less than two feet from the surface. It soon became clear that it wasn’t just any stone bench, but part of a 1st-century synagogue. This was one of only seven from the Second Temple period known to exist and the first to be found in the Galilee region. It is also the first synagogue excavated from the time of Jesus where we know from Scripture that he actually walked and taught. In fact, local coins found in a side room of the synagogue were dated from the year 29—when Jesus would likely have been active in his ministry.
It is truly amazing that we are able to see artifacts from Jesus’ time especially when there has been so much conflict and turmoil over the 2,000 years that have passed. In fact, I think that much of it has yet to be discovered as Magdala itself is currently still considered to be an ongoing archaeological site.
Bethsaida
Next, we headed to Tabgha, on the north-western shore of the Sea of Galilee, which is best known for Christ’s miraculous multiplication of loaves and fish to feed a multitude. It is also remembered for Jesus’ appearance to his disciples after his Resurrection when he tested and commissioned St Peter as leader of his Church.
When we arrived, there were already busloads of tourists filling up the limited space outside the Church of the Primacy of St Peter, along the banks of the Sea of Galilee. Thankfully, we managed to gain access to a private area where it was a lot quieter due to the fact that we had 2 Franciscan Friars leading us on this Pilgrimage. There was a small stream running through this area where our guide, Yossi, explained to us that it was used by fishermen during Jesus’ time to wash their nets.
Safed
Next, we headed up to Safed, which is one of the four holy cities of Judaism (Jerusalem, Hebron, Tiberias, Safed) and is also the highest city in the Holy Land. Set in the dense pine forests of the Upper Galilee, overlooking Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee, Safed is a delicious blend of ancient grandeur and modern-day structures. It was first mentioned at the time of the Jewish revolt against Rome (66–70 CE) and is thereafter frequently referred to in rabbinic literature. The first thing that I noticed as we drove in was the number of ultra-orthodox Jews. They seemed to be around every corner in the city.
For thousands of years, the ancient city of Safed was conquered and reconquered – always changing hands. Today, after years of conflict ranging from the Crusaders to the Mamluks to the British, Safed survives – as vibrant and mystical as ever!
Domus Galilaeae Monastery
Our last stop of the day was the Domus Galilaeae Monastery. One of the greatest desires of Pope Paul VI was to build in Israel a center where Seminarians could complete their formation before being ordained. It was with this frame of mind that the Vatican purchased Notre Dame, near the Jaffa Gate in Jerusalem. At the beginning of the 80s, the Custodian in the Holy Land offered the Neocatechumenal Way the possibility to build a center of the formation, for studies and retreat, on a piece of land situated on the Mount of Beatitudes. This work is of particular interest to the Church and Israel. Pope John Paul II, when he was first informed about the project “Domus Galilaeae” in 1994, showed his enthusiasm. He blessed it and supported it, seeing in it a service for all peoples and “for the whole Church”. In the following years, all the permits were obtained for the construction which began in January 1999, with the laying of the first stone, which contained a fragment of the tomb of St. Peter, blessed by the Holy Father.
Entering this place, I was immediately filled with a strong sense of peace and calmness as I stood in awe at the modern architecture of the place. It was built magnificently and as I walked through the building I felt very free due to the large open spaces and the beautiful scenery overlooking the city. We were brought around by a Seminarian who showed us the Auditorium, and Library and we got to take a look at the seminary from afar as well.
