Reflections by: Nicolas Cabawatan
Chronicles of a pilgrim – Day 9 – #sequelachristi2022
Temple Mount
In the morning, we made our way to the Temple Mount!
The Temple Mount refers to the elevated plaza above the Western Wall in Jerusalem. It was the site of both ancient Jewish temples. The first, built by King Solomon, was destroyed by the Babylonians in 586 BCE. The second was built in the sixth century BCE and stood for nearly 600 years before it was destroyed and the Jewish people exiled in 70 CE by the Roman Empire.
The site is also the third holiest in Islam (after Mecca and Medina) and has been a focal point of inter-religious tension for decades. At present, the site is under Israeli sovereignty but is administered by the Muslim Waqf (religious trust). Jews and other non-Muslims are permitted to visit, but Jewish prayer is forbidden there — a provision long contested by a small number of Israeli Jews who oppose Muslim control over the site. Violence has flared at the site on numerous occasions, and Israeli forces sometimes restrict access to Muslims at times of elevated tensions.
We had to queue and go through security checks before entering Temple Mount. After passing through security, we caught a glimpse of the western (wailing) wall and saw the Jews praying there. Entering the Temple Mount, the first thing that caught my eye was the golden dome of the Rock.
Dome of the Rock
The Dome of the Rock is an Islamic shrine located on the Temple Mount. It is situated on top of the site of the Second Jewish Temple which was destroyed by the Romans. The Dome of the Rock is the world’s oldest surviving work of Islamic architecture. According to Muslims, the rock above which the dome is constructed is the spot from which the Prophet Muhammad was taken up into heaven for an encounter with God.
The walls were built around the summit of Mount Moriah and are traditionally said to be the site where Abraham demonstrated his devotion to God by taking his son Isaac to be sacrificed.
Before the temples were destroyed, the site of the Dome of the Rock is also said to be where the holy of holies (the most sacred part of the Jewish temples) were. For the Jews, it is forbidden to enter the holy of holies, so, they did not enter the Temple Mount.
Near the Dome of the Rock, we had the opportunity to see the Dome of the Spirits. According to our tour guide, Josef, it is believed that this place was where the veil was torn. Josef also showed us a point where we could see and connect three events that took place in the time of Jesus. Firstly, the location of his death, Golgotha (Church of the Holy Sepulchre). Then, the location where the veil was torn, was Mount Moriah (Dome of the Spirits). Lastly, the location of his ascension, Mount of Olives.
Josef also mentioned that the veil was the Father’s tallit (prayer shawl of the Jews). And in the Jewish tradition, when a son dies, the father tears his tallit in as a sign of mourning. In the same way, our heavenly father tears his “tallit” in mourning for Jesus’ death.
Entering the Temple Mount and seeing the Dome of the Rock, I thought it looked impressive and appreciated the history and meaning behind this location. But what struck me most was the meaning of the tearing of the veil which was explained by Josef. The Father gave up his only son so that we may live in fullness with him again. The great sacrifice of both the Father and Son reminded me of the love they have for us.
Western Wall
We went on from the Dome of the Rock to the Western Wall.
The Western Wall, also known as the “Wailing Wall” or the “Kotel”, is the most religious site in the world for the Jewish people. It is the last remaining outer wall of the ancient Jewish temple. King Herod built this wall in 20 BCE during an expansion of the Second Temple. When the Romans destroyed the temple in 70 CE, the support wall survived. For hundreds of years, people prayed in the small area of the wall that could be seen. In 1967, following the Six Day War, Israelis dug below the ground of the wall, exposing two more levels. They also cleared the area around the wall to create the Western Wall Plaza that visitors see today. Opposite the wall is a large open plaza that leads into a gender-segregated place for prayer. Many have the custom of writing prayers on pieces of paper and placing them inside crevices of the wall.
We had the opportunity to enter the Western Wall praying site and touch the wall. But before that, we had to put on yarmulkes on our heads (for men only). It is a reminder for the Jews that God’s presence is always above us. Wearing a yarmulke is a sign of showing reverence to God. It was a unique experience watching the Jews pray, touching the wall and seeing the pieces of paper inside the crevices of the wall.
The Jerusalem Archaeological Park
We made our way to the Jerusalem Archaeological Park. We focused on the Eastern Huldah Gates. It was built in the second temple period and is a triple gate. Of the original masonry, only the threshold and the lowest stone of the left doorpost have survived. It was these gates that Jesus used to enter Jerusalem.
St Francis Ad Coenaculum Monastery
After visiting the Huldah Gates, we had mass at the St Francis Ad Coenaculum Monastery. It was located near the Upper Room (the location of the last supper). It is also the place closest to the Upper Room, where mass can be celebrated.
What is striking to me about the Monastery was the tabernacle of the chapel. Behind the altar, there is a sculpture depicting the last supper. Jesus in the Eucharist is in the heart of Jesus the sculpture. Thus, symbolizing his heart given to each of us.
The Upper Room
The Upper Room, also known as the Cenacle, was a place in which the last supper took place, and it was also the site where the Holy Spirit alighted upon the eleven apostles on Pentecost.
During the rule of Suleiman the Magnificent, the Ottomans took possession of the Cenacle and converted it into a mosque. We could see some evidence of this conversion in the stained glass windows with Arabic inscriptions from the Quran. And also, a mihrab is a niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the qibla, the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca towards which Muslims should face when praying.
Christian Quarters
We concluded our day by shopping in the Christian Quarters and buying gifts for our family and friends.